The "Peñon de Cabo Blanco" crag, located in Malpaís, just 10 minutes away from Santa Teresa, is probably the country's most stunning crag. It is a seaside crag, located in between white sand beaches and next to the only absolute natural reserve of the country called "Cabo Blanco"
How to Get There:
Drive all the way south parallel to the coast to the end of Mal País beach, past the fishermen, you continue towards your left, driving to the very end of the street through a bumpy road until you reach a parking lot.
From that parking lot walk towards Playa Cuevas (aka Playa Suecos). From the small beach it's a two minute walk north, hiking through some boulders, to reach the base of the rock.
Climbing Advice:
Remember this crag ir right next to the ocean, so humidity levels and temperatures are usually high.
South Facing Wall:
Generally speaking you will find the easier, more slabby routes. Even though there are some hard ones as well.
Try to go as early in the morning as possible since you will have direct sunlight after 9 am, or late in the afternoon for a sunset / night climbing session.
You can go at any tide.
West Facing Wall:
You will find intermediate routes, in the 5.11 range.
These are the longest routes of the crag, so definitely worth giving them a try.
Important! You have to go on low or medium tide since it's not possible to belay on high tide!
North Facing Wall:
You will find the most advanced routes. All of them are overhanging and 5.12+
You can climb at any time of the day since you will have shade pretty much all day.
Only the very highest point of the tide you might have some trouble with the belay.
Other considerations:
Sunscreen is advisable from 10 am onwards.
Wearing tennis shoes is the best for access and belaying, sandals are not great.
Some belay areas have small tide pools so it's a good idea to bring a waterproof bag to place the rope and keep it relatively dry.
ALWAYS spot your climbing partner before they clip the first bolt.
ALWAYS pre-clip the first bolt if you have the chance to.
ALWAYS wear a helmet if belaying or standing around close to the walls.
BEWARE of rope friction on sharp edges when lowering. Slow lowering advisable. There can always be surprise rockfall or broken holds. Take into consideration this is a very new crag with low traffic.
Remember the crag is next to Costa Ricas first National Park, this means wildlife here is abundant and should be respected.
Please carry all your trash out and if you have a chance and take any marine trash you might encounter, making it an even nicer place for all of us.
Here is the link to Mountain Project App list of routes:
If you want to go rock climbing in santa teresa, hire a local guide to take you climbing:
Stay safe and have fun!
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